Sunday, September 25, 2016

Monument Valley, Utah

The road leading into Monument Valley, Utah.
I camped in a Navajo-owned campground just outside the entrance to the National Monument. I found out the campground inside no longer allows dogs.
This turned out to be a good choice. This was my view from the campground. The owner was able to arrange two private tours for me...one by vehicle, and the other on horseback.
I took the vehicle tour first. My Navajo guides, Dorothy and her husband, picked me up right after I got the RV set up. The dirt road leading into the valley passes by the famous Mittens formations and Merrick Butte, seen here. The Mittens look like hands, but to the Navajo, they signify spiritual beings watching over.
The road starts out in good shape, but farther on, or after rain, you need 4-wheel drive.
Merrick Butte was named for a silver prospector who was reportedly killed by Ute Indians.
Me with a view of the Mittens behind me.
Three Sisters represents a Catholic Nun facing her two pupils.
Dorothy's husband wanted me to wear his hat for a photo, but it was too big (and too sweaty), so I put it on top of my hat, lol.
A familiar spot in western movies, a Navajo man poses on his horse while tourists take pictures. We passed it by to get to the restricted part of the valley where you can't go without a guide.
Rain God Mesa marks the geographical center of the park, and is a very spiritual place for the Navajo. Navajo medicine men pray and give thanks to the Rain God, who stored water for the people. You can see the dark streaks where water seeps out of the sandstone. Dorothy grew up here, and she described the night ceremonies where reflections from fires on the wet walls gave the illusion of spirit movement. 
At this point Dorothy began to sing a native song, one that they sang at the ceremony for the Rain God, apparently. Here's a sample; the whole song wouldn't upload. Click on the video.
Dorothy taught the Navajo language to children at the local school until she retired. She may have been the last teacher to do that in the public school. This is a picture of the other side of Rain God Mesa.
The Yei Bi Chei (Navajo Spiritual gods), seen on the left, is a formation of dancers emerging from a hogan.  
Traditional hogans. No one lives in these, but they are open for tour companies to bring their tourists. You can see a more modern house in the background where a family lives. Dorothy said that children walked out to the main road to catch the school bus, but I would think parents would drive them out nowadays since they have vehicles.
This formation is called Sleeping Dragon. You can see the dragon's head lying on the ground facing left and his body stretched out behind. There is even a hole in the rock where his eye would be.
At the top of this rock is a profile of the Chief wearing a bandana around his head.
The Chief
If I remember correctly, this formation was called Camel Butte.
Totem Pole. This is an example of what erosion does to a butte. This formation has also been seen in movies.
Another homestead. There is no electricity or running water in the valley.
A more modern home built in the shape of a hogan. You can see a portable generator outside. Water is brought in large tanks in the back of pickup trucks.
This natural cave is used to shelter sheep or other livestock.
A horse corral.
The round hogan is called the female hogan, and is a permanent structure. The pointed one behind it is the male hogan and is considered portable..can be moved. The tiny one on the right is the sweat lodge.
Going farther into the valley.
A horseback riding tour company keeps their horses here. This is not the same tour I will take.
That is Dorothy's husband checking out the classic cars. I guess a group of them were touring here. I wouldn't have driven my car in here.
Dorothy says the male hogan seen here is about 100 years old.
The road gets a little rougher here.

The other side of the Totem Pole.
This is called the "Marriage Tree." Navajo weddings are performed here.
In fact this is where Dorothy and (Jonah?) were married. I'm not sure I remember his name correctly.
And he insisted I should have my picture taken here too.
Dorothy says this is called the Rooster. Her husband says it is a madonna and child. I guess it depends who you ask.
The North Window 
Same place from a different angle.
Back by the Three Sisters...
Dorothy says that's a bear climbing on the head of the middle one.
And that was what I could remember of all that I was told.
Sunset glow on the rocks during our evening walk.
The sun sets behind the rocks.
Sunset glow on the formations across the road from the campground. 

I took a two-hour horseback riding tour the next morning. I will do a separate post about that.